2007年02月02日

Nuclear Winter in Chernobyl

(Part 2 of those story is located here.)

I spent the day in Chernobyl. One of my Kiev game dev friends hooked me up with a private tour, so I decided to go for the day to check it out. Every woman in my life told me this was a bad idea. Every man said it sounded awesome.It was awesome, although I really usually fare better when I listen to the women. For the guys, here is a picture of me holding a Geiger counter at the main reactor.
Stuck in Chernobyl

Anyway, the day could not have been colder, but it fit with the milieu of the trip to Chernobyl. In case you don’t know or can’t remember, this is the infamous nuclear power plant that melted down in 1986; it was the worst nuclear plant disaster in the world.

I have taken a bunch of photos, but only had time to process a few of them. I’ll post more in coming weeks and months, but I have pieced these together that show a good sampling of the day.

After I made it through the 30KM security radiation zone, where Will was detained by the military for not having proper documentation (a longer story which ended with him sitting in a military bunker for four hours watching Colombo dubbed in Ukranian), I was handed over to a member of the military who took me on a personal tour of the area. We passed through the 10KM security radiation zone, and then we were well within the exclusion zone.

I paid one of the military guys and borrowed his Geiger counter so I could keep track of the RADs as we moved around. More on that later.

First, we stopped in Pripyat, a fascinating place right out of the Day After. Pripyat was built as the ultimate Soviet communist panacea, a place for Chernobyl plant workers and their families to live, go to school, play, and live their lives in master-planned bliss.

Pripyat was immediately deserted after the accident – kids left schools with their books still on the desks, families rushed out without getting everything, just complete and instant desertion. While I was there, it was completely quiet, and it was extra surreal with the early 80′s styling of the Soviet buildings, windows ajar, stuff still sitting in all the windows.

First, from Pripyat, here was the shining star of the city, the fine hotel in its Russian splendor, now an empty, cold, and radiated husk.

The Ghost Hotel of Chernobyl

Second is one of the large apartment buildings with a slowly rotting exterior. I could still hear shutters opening and closing in the wind.

Radiated Apartment Building

Next, I went to the creepiest part of Pripyat, the playground and amusement park. This was recently completed just before the disaster. Bumper cars, swings, a ferris wheel, and other bits of abandoned toys now lay quiet and creaking in the snow. The second picture is another part of the playground, where the kids emerged from school for playtime.

The Dead Ferris Wheel of Chernobyl

The Little Girl Blowing Bubbles from Chernobyl (by Stuck in Customs)

We checked the Geiger counter because this area was supposed to still have a significant amount of caesium-137, which takes a good 300 years to dissipate to safe levels. It was around 0.054, so we decided to keep moving. Now we started heading for the main power plant complex. We stopped in something he called the RAD forest that had an old Chernobyl sign that was kitschy and interesting. 0.290 on the screen. He looked at me, “We should leave quickly.”

Finally, I ended the the tour at the Chernobyl power plant itself. It was nerve-wracking, so I took a few shots then moved along.

Nuclear Winter in Chernobyl

On the way out, I went through three different radiation checks. Below is one of the military guys that was holding a geiger counter gun that he ran along the car and a few other things. I went inside to a special decontamination center and entered a device that looked like stripped down telephone booth / nautilus machine. I placed my hands and feet on special sensors. It said I was clean in some cyrillic word that may or may not have said I was clean. I looked at the military guy that escorted me in there and he gave me one of those Russian frowns and shrugged his shoulders as if to say, “Eh, good enough”.

(Part 2 of those story is located here.)

The Ruskie with the Geiger Gun

(Part 2 of those story is located here.)

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  • http://crazycanuck.org/ Stephen Pierzchala

    Congrats on your journey into the Zone. Can’t wait to see the rest of your images from this adventure!

    smp

  • http://www.cc-chapman.com C.C. Chapman

    Absolutely amazing photos in a scary, creepy, amazing way.

  • Susan

    This is great Trey….just like being on a trip but with none of the danger! Take care!

  • a girl

    Wow – I’m not sure whether to say “cool”, or to get angry with you! But I can tell that you were very excited for the tour. Poor Will, did he miss it all?

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  • http://thingsonwheels.blogspot.com Iulian

    Wow, i’m fascinated for a long time by this kind of stuff (especially Cernobyl), and every time I see a story from someone who’s been there, it fires me up more to go too.. One day, soon, i’ll go there, and have my story :)
    I have some pictures shot in deserted buildings – one of those series can be found here : http://noapte.blogspot.com/2006/07/session-9.html – but an entyre deserted city ..is some sort of a “Mecca” :D
    One question, i should ask : it looks like you used a film camera, or ? (i’m thinking that digital cameras won’t make it through such radiation levels, near the reactor..)
    Thank’s for a great story, and great pictures !

  • http://www.pete63.me.uk Pete63

    Fascinating story.Must have been very spooky, sortof, hair on the back of theneck standing up kinda stuff. So sad though, all those poor men, women and children who had their one and only life so badly affected or even, ended.

    Great pics Trey, keep em coming. Don’t forget to pop to London sometime soon.

  • http://www.stuckincustoms.com tratcliff

    Thanks guys –

    Yes I did use a digital camera. The radiation did not affect the camera any, thank goodness. For some reason, I was more worried about the camera than myself.

  • http://poker4peace.blogspot.com/ slimeface

    That’s a great story!! Fantastic images of a place most people will never see.

  • Iceman9294

    You amaze me Trey. Thank you for sharing your latest adventure. Glad you and your wife have kids already!

  • http://shuttergypsy.blogspot.com Jen

    Trey—really good stuff. I too have wanted to go see Chernobyl, maybe I have a slight death wish of my own…pretty amazing….thanks so much for sharing your eerie experience.

  • http://philogyny.net Philip Luedtke

    I’m jealous beyond words. I presume without appropriate connections a tour of the site is unheard of?

  • http://www.stuckincustoms.com tratcliff

    Thanks all – You can get a tour if you just plan ahead. There are passports to be sent around and a few preparations to be made… but if they let me in, they will let anyone in!

  • Gavrusha

    Great photos and story. I am a girl but I always wanted to go to the Zone (as they call it in Ukraine). I lived in Kiev for almost 5 years but never had a chance to do it. Or simply I didn’t know how to arrange it. Could you pls tell me how your friend managed to arrange the tour and what sort of documents are required for that. I envy you. COOL!

  • http://www.stuckincustoms.com tratcliff

    Sure -just drop me an email and I will send you the details

  • http://Swelltown.com Hode

    Very cool pictures. There is something so eery and fascinating about Chernobyl and you captured it.

    I hope you don’t mind, I posted this to Digg!

    http://www.digg.com/design/HDR_Images_Of_Chernobyl

  • Alex

    PRIPYAT.com banner on the 3rd photo, on a balcony. What is that? Who put it there? When?

  • Markus Sorensson

    I hope you have frozen some sperm, cause those balls of yours are not going to work well anymore.

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  • Adam

    Way to get dugg again Trey. =)

  • http://www.freetube.us.tc Joost

    Creepy ..especially the graffiti (i rhymed)

  • http://muvy.org Joe

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  • cathode

    Wow, what a crappy over-use of HDR.

  • http://www.tratfor.com Trat For

    This will all end with crying.

  • http://www.junemproductions.nl June

    @tratcliff… Dude,

    Sometimes you got to start listening to the women in your life, most deff. I think you make some stupid discion to risk your health like that. I hope for you that you live long enough to tell your kids this story.

    All the best form The Netherlands ;)

  • http://naturalismo.wordpress.com/files/2007/02/dev3.gif devin

    I think you mean Red Forest, also it’s somewhat disconcerting that they told you to turn away from it at a rating of .29. In the new movie Vice guide to travel, they’re told to turn away when they get a rating of 4.2!!

  • Matt

    I’m interested as to what units the meter you were using was displaying? Was it referring to energy levels (Curies) or body dose rate (Rem/hr)?

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  • chad

    I looked at the pictures. neat

  • chad

    hi, ammanda

  • chad

    oops spelt your name wrong sorry

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  • Dave

    Great pictures!
    I read ‘Wolves Eat Dogs’ by Martin Cruz Smith last year, and ended up poking around Chernobyl and its surroundings for a few hours with Google Earth (lat 51.269088° lon 30.217586°)
    Very creepy.

  • ted

    “fare better”

  • Andrew

    hey. I’ve wanted to visit Russia for years, my friend and I even learned the alphabet (mainly for fun, and because it’s pretty cool), although we can’t fluently speak any.

    I was curious if there is any way to get a tour like that without having a hook-up from a friend.

    e-mail me back at-
    shadowmaker14@gmail.com

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  • http://beinghad.com Adam

    I like the pictures a lot. I put a small link to your Chernobyl page on the front page of beinghad.com today. I’d like to feature some of your photos again sometime if you don’t mind.

    Adam

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  • http://koosfernhout.blogspot.com/ Koos Fernhout

    Hi
    You might find Elena Filatova’s site about Chernobyl interesting:
    http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/kiddofspeed/chapter1.html
    Just for your info.
    Kindest regards,
    Koos Fernhout
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/fernhout/sets

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  • Johanna

    Well, on the plus side you’ll never need another nightlight.

  • Skip

    I was in Keiv in 2001 and when to the Chernobyl museum. A lady in the flat next to us took a trip to the zone…my wife had to care for her the next day she was so sick. I have pictures…before we owned a digital camera…which I could scan in of the museum in Keiv.

  • mary

    Are there any opportunities to reside (purchse a home) in this area. I am from Canada, and am interested in living in Ukraine. I speak the language, so that would be helpful. I am finding it hard to be able to economically move forward, so I wonder if my son and I were able to move there, if there are any future opportunities. (of course not in evacuated areas, but closer to the safe zones, where property prices may be less.

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  • MarkR

    The Chernobyl Exclusion Zone is a fascinating place to visit.

    I visited the area for two days in June 2006 with a former resident of Pripyat.
    We got a tour of the Chernobyl Plant (including the Reactor 4 control room),
    several of the abandoned villages, and Pripyat. I have posted a photo journal
    of my trip at:

  • MarkR

    The Chernobyl Exclusion Zone is a fascinating place to visit.

    I visited the area for two days in June 2006 with a former resident of Pripyat.
    We got a tour of the Chernobyl Plant (including the Reactor 4 control room),
    several of the abandoned villages, and Pripyat. I have posted a photo journal
    of my trip at:

    http://www.nikongear.com/Chernobyl/Chernobyl_1.htm

  • http://drumsnwhistles.com/ Karoli

    I don’t know how I missed this when you first posted it, but I did. What an amazing, striking and chilling set of photographs. I have never seen anything quite like it.

  • Tollen

    Hi.

    Chilling, striking photography. It is an honor to view these photos, knowing the risk of visiting there. In 1992 I visited hospitals in Kiev that treated sick children from the Chernobyl area, a most heart wrenching experience.
    Thank you!!

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  • carlos

    Nice humor and interesting world you have come upon. Probably many other safer places to visit and not risk getting radiation…but somebody has got to do it. I remember the meltdown,…I was in (west) germany at the time, and i recall the farmers had to destroy their crops because of fear of the wind dusting their crops with the fallout. Must say it’s nice to see finally somebody photographing and telling the story of such a BIG mistake. Thanks-Спасибо

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  • Aaron

    “fare” not “fair”

  • http://www.stuckincustoms.com tratcliff

    Whoops… my copy editor missed that foible

  • Pham Son

    Strike into the heart. I till feeling the hurt from seeing children die one by one in the hospital in that day.

    Very nice pictures you got.

  • amanda

    I am a grade 11 student and currentley doing finals review an di look at these pictures and read this story and it isnt untill im done reading it do i realize how i have it im not dying or changed by radiation i didnt have to be evacuated leaving my friends im lucky and all of you should know that you are too and stop worrying about the little things because there are people that are worse off then you live today like you will die tommorrow enjoythe good life because its all yuov got

  • http://yahoo.com Steve

    Hey bro! Well Done! Visit my sites, please:

  • http://www.party-penner.de/ André (PN Admin)

    Hey,
    your pictures look great, the story is great, too.
    Although I can’t really belive that some of the pictures are real, they look like painting or digital art… but still awesome.

    Thanks for sharing.
    André

  • mekto

    you think you are smart ? IQ test
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  • http://noneyet John Beijer

    Hello dear man.

    i am 16 years old and i live in holland. i am very excited about chernobyl and i really want to visit it’s plant and Pripyat,as you did. thanks for those big high detail awesome pictures. one of them is on my background now. i thank you for your wonderfull story. hopefully i will be going to chernobyl in about 2 years.

    Greetings from holland,

    John

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  • Rob Robinson

    Very impressive,
    Excellent story and pics….Very motivating,maybe its a death wish but I will make that journey myself to the “Exclusion zone” one of these days. Its one of the few places on earth that can use a catastrophy to there benefit.Hopefully more people will take the tour and boost the economy in the area. !

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  • http://limitedx.com Tom Warner

    Great journal and photos. I have been fascinated by Chernobyl ever since the disaster occurred.

  • Liench

    I truly admire you for such a nerve to go there and experience all of it yourself. I was born in 6th of may, 1986 and my mother later told me that she was really worried about my father who almost got there for cleaning up after disaster, oh, there I should say that I am from Latvia which is really close to chernobyl. maybe that is reason why I feel interested in stories about chernobyl and enjoyed yours so much.
    thanks for sharing experience. good luck :)

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  • Sir David Bówli

    “We stopped in something he called the RAD forest that had an old Chernobyl sign that was kitschy and interesting. 0.290 on the screen. He looked at me, “We should leave quickly.”

    LOL, this is not RAD forest, this is red forest…

  • cs_szabo

    Dear Tratcliff,

    I’ve just finished reading the 2nd part of the story. I’m sorry, but there are some mistakes in it. It seems the town of Chernobyl was called as Slavutych in the story.

  • http://exit78.com/weblog Mike Goad

    I have worked in nuclear power for about 35 years and am familiar with the accident at Chernobyl. Your story and photos are very interesting.

    Mike Goad
    Dover, Arkansas

  • http://www.canona720.com cANON A720

    I think you mean Red Forest, also it’s somewhat disconcerting that they told you to turn away from it at a rating of .29. In the new movie Vice guide to travel, they’re told to turn away when they get a rating of 4.2!!
    GOOD LUCK TO YOU

  • Bruce

    I was privileged to spend one week in the contaminated zone where the settlers had moved back. This was for the 10th anniversary of the accident. I was with CBS, Tom Fenton and his camera crew. We all got some of the first copies of the 10th anniversary book that they published. We then visited the damaged reactor. We were supposed to spend max 10 minutes, we were there close to an hour. My hair is gray!! I have pics of the ferris wheel and stood by the apt. complex in the forsaken city. The meter was clicking about 2000 and more near the reactor. Good memories–gave out tons of supplies to the self settlers in the bad zone.

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  • Craig

    Wow, I’ve always wanted to go there. Nice pictures by the way :) . So, do you recommend going here or anything? I would love to see it, specially the feriss wheel since I like Call Of Duty 4. I admit im a saddo that plays it all the time :S. If any of you have xbox live and want to add me im o P O D Y o. If that doesn’t work I’ll be Ls SniiPeZz. Well anyway nice one going through all the radiation! :)

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  • http://fushmush.net jess

    I’m a chick and I think it would be amazing to visit Chernobyl. Thanks for sharing the story :D

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  • http://dada vilius

    wow this is…

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  • http://j-magz.com arie

    oh my god..
    speechless..so empty

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  • Phil

    I know lots of people who’ve been there on trips. No probs. And one guy who’s been working there for years. Also no probs.

  • http://www.splinx.com Stephen Peterson

    Trey-
    Thanks for sharing your beautiful work, curious humor, unique vision, and generous tips about HDR. I just d/l the trial version of Photomatix v.3.1.2, and was delighted to see that it accepted my PEF (Pentax RAW format)files with nary a hiccup. W/o much effort I was able to create a single-image HDR from my K10D’s RAW output and looking forward to seeing how this all integrates with PC, Pentax, and Photoshop 7.
    Thanks again, and keep drawing!

  • http://-nowebsiteavailable- Joshua

    I would recommend that only people who are older than the age of fifty and who already have had kids can to go to that place.

    Just to prevent damages to their reproductions particals.

  • alex wayles

    if radiation exposure exceeded .55 rads for any extensive period, your fingernails may turn black and fall off, and possibly one or two fingers along with them. this ordinarily occurs during sleep, so if these symptoms should occur, you should wake up to them. but it seems that you took reasonable precautionary measures (apart from being there). (that was a joke…..i hope). good shots, but they have a rather subdued, documentary flavor, for you. my sister was an film major, and she loves your sh

  • alex wayles

    ots.

  • http://mozila cekovka

    i don now what we do do but they will be not survive

  • http://www.onlinedocumentaries4u.com/ Scott

    Amazing post…I guess you can say you’ve been everywhere if you can say you’ve been to Chernobyl.

  • http://www.awakashaya.com Geeshapathi perera

    it’s realy awesome man….you have done of my dreams…i will really try to get this experience

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  • Antonio L Rivera

    Wow !!! I’d read a lot of articles concerning Chernobyl, and I think by far, this is one of the best! You explained with lots of details with a nice mix of a reporter and a tourist without being a political critic or a furious activist. I love the pictures because it represent the feeling of being there with great compositional perspective. Chernobyl looks like a gost town frost on the 80′s. I was on my Sophomore year when the tragedy happened and I could rememmber what a wordeful and terrible season on my life: Chernobyl, Challenger disaster, my first car, plans and dreams for the future and the list will go on…
    Keep going!
    Antonio Luis
    Puerto Rico

  • jamie

    i love the pics of the place and how much would it cost in au$ to go there

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  • http://www.flickr.com/photos/rags1969/ rags

    like the guy smilin away. couple of others have a bitt too much of HDR treatment

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    I just added you to my Google News Reader. Keep up the good work. Look forward to reading more from you in the future.

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  • http://NuclearWinter Oliver Gibberd-Thomas

    I find that Chernobyl has effected me, and made me what I am. A close encounter with the vast radiation lost me a finger somehow. I cannot remember how, but It just happened. I woke up near the sarcophagus and tremberling with the cold. I had the feeling that the whole structure would collapse ontop of me, it was a frightening week in Ukraine.

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  • luke

    Great pictures.

    I would love to go to Pripyat one day!

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  • Victor Wojtychiw

    Do you even know what country you were in? Your referring to Ukrianian soldiers as well as other refrences of the area as Russian is very insulting.

  • bYRON mORELOCK

    Hey Trey !!
    At least you got a half -ass smile from one of the guards !!
    It took me 3 solid weeks to get one from my Hotel guard !!

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  • http://cherisundra.wordpress.com/ Cheri Sundra

    I enjoyed reading your blog—stunning pictures!

    You are hanging out with the wrong women…..I love exploring abandoned places and Chernobyl is high on my wish list! ;-)

  • http://www.inhouseimage.com joeyb

    this is a once in a life time trip thats for sure! thank you for sharing

  • http://www.rumataphoto.com RumataMx

    Hell! Good story, how brave you are to get in those risky places. Kudos to you Trey!
    Thanks for sharing.

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  • Master Reseller

    Nice,

    Great Job…
    I like to read all information on this Blog.

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  • Sebastian

    i love the history, i love Chernobyl (without diseased interesting) i like the ghost towns
    like pripyat. I Hope someday travel to there.

    Sebastian, From Argentina.

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  • http://www.masa-media.de Martin – Germany

    Hey Trey,

    why this green cast in the pictures? Don’t tell us the film in your camera got damaged because of the radiation ;-) )) Or is your intention to make the pics look toxic?

    thank you,
    Martin. :o )

  • Christin

    Captivating recount. The photos are unbelievable. It’s like straight out of Silent Hill or something….so very creepy and desolate and ……no words….

  • http://www.tinyurl.com/GraffitiLogicGplus Bill Dodd

    Great idea, taking someone to absorb your bad luck. Hey, I can be pretty unlucky if you need someone else to hold a bag on your next trip. I’ll even pay my own way, plus I know alot of those Columbo episodes in case Will gets lonely in the gulag. ;)

    All joking aside, a great read.

  • http://www.a2sm.com Seth Goldstein

    Hey Trey

    You’re a braver man that I am. I’ve always be fascinated by this disaster and your photos really do tell a story. Thanks for being the brave one to show all of us what it’s like 20 years later.

  • http://www.thetimechamber.co.uk TheTimeChamber

    This place is amazing! I recently spent 3 eerie days here mayself, you can find the photos here:

    http://thetimechamber.co.uk/Sites/Chernobyl/index.php

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  • Nakoo

    This story reminded me of Elena’s blog http://www.kiddofspeed.com/

  • http://twitter.com/FilmBoy84 Jacob Deuchar

    That’s because it’s not HDR ;)
    White Balance is shocking, but i think it’s intentional to make the photos look aged or like Polaroids…

  • Klappa

    Too bad you filtered it yellow and applied HDR to every pic otherwise a fantastic story!

  • http://www.stuckincustoms.com/ Luke Lakatosh (SIC Support)

    These aren’t HDR as far as I’m aware.

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